John pulls up in the Toyota and greets us with a big smile and good English. I climb in front with *Nancy on my lap, while Shiela arranges the diaper bag and *Martin beside her, before adjusting baby Jane on her lap. All three of the children are dressed like we might be on our way to a fete (party) or legliz (church),with Nancy in a purple plaid dress, Jane in black on white polka dots, and Martin in a handsome collar shirt with khaki shorts, but we are headed to Milot (MEE-low) Hospital. I am accompanying Sheila for the children's routine HIV appointments where they receive the medications and care that keep them healthy. There is no outward sign of the deadly disease within that has already taken the life of their parents and threatens theirs.
Rains have soaked the land every night in recent days, so the difficult dirt road is even more challenging to navigate that usual, with puddles the size of small ponds connected by narrow muddy rivers. We do not pass many of the moto's that usually populate the roads, and it relives me to know there are some conditions even too tough for them. John is a cautious driver and moves slowly through the dips and mounds. It is reassuring, knowing the children are only restrained by the limited strength of our arms. After a few miles we reach the tar road. It is welcome relief to our jostled bones and tense abdominal muscles. The rest of the drive is fairly comfortable with Nancy nestled cozily under my chin.
As you enter the outskirts of Milot, the Citadel stands on a mountaintop above, square and formidable The streets are busy with school children in their bright, coordinating uniforms, and food vendors line the street in anticipation of the day's traffic. We pass the hospital dormitory compound on the right, where visiting medical professionals and other longer term doctors and nurses live. It is gated and guarded, and the cement block walls of buildings have stained glass in typical Catholic style. Beautiful fruited and flowering trees dress the grounds.
The hospital is not much further ahead on the left. Nancy doesn't want to walk, so I carry her as we cross the busy road. The main entrance is clean and crowded with vendors, security, men and women dressed in scrubs, and nursing students dressed in prim white aprons with white hose and knee socks, reminiscent of U.S. army nurses of WWII. The sick are interspersed, arriving on foot, carried by concerned loved ones, or occasionally in wheel chairs.
The hospital itself, is a collection of whitewashed buildings connected by narrow sidewalks, corridors, and courtyards. People sit everywhere on benches or squatting on the side of walkways. Doors leading into various departments are crowded with those who wait for appointments. Pediatrics on the left, across from radiology, then little a little room with a placard overhead reading, "department of community nutrition", and so on.
We wind through most of the grounds, climb a flight of stairs, and arrive at the HIV clinic on the second floor. There is a short hallway with 4 chairs on the right and a wooden bench on the left. Five doors open into the hallway, but all are closed. Already 2 women wait. One has a small baby dressed in a purple sleeper and wrapped in a warm blanket. The baby sleeps on her lap, with no hint at the ailment that brings them here, The mother smiles gently as we sit down across from her. The other women has a small baby wrapped similar to the first. She tells the first woman her baby is sick and she has a worried expression which fades, but does not disappear, when we greet her. Her baby lays on the bench beside her, motionless, asleep.
Though we have arrived a 1/2 hour late, it does not appear we have missed out on anything. Medical staff are in a meeting. Occasionally someone leaves the room to take a phone call, but otherwise the door remains closed. After an hour or more, the meeting ends and a nurse, then the doctor, come to begin seeing the patients that now fill the seats and bench.
The children in our care are remarkably patient. There is no play area. No office books or magazines. No brightly colored murals or decal to distract them from boredom. Madame Ga, the depot supervisor, has packed some snacks, powdered milk and water, a couple of fisher price animals, and two books. The snacks are the most effective pacifiers.
One hour turns to two, and then three. During this time Martin announces he has to go to the bathroom and proceeds to start peeing out the door. Sheila grabs him and brings him to the base of the stairs to at least have him pee on the grass. This happens one more time.
Nancy also indicates she has to use the bathroom. Her journey is not quite as simple as Martin's. Though there is a bathroom near the clinic, no one has the key when we need it, so I leave with Nancy to take her to the public bathrooms across the road. This is the kind of adventure no one wants or needs. The public restroom is manned by a janitor with a mop, which somehow does little to reassure me about sanitation. There are not separate entrances for men or women, rather one large room with separate stalls that lock individually and a roll of toilet paper suspended on a wire by the front door, should you chose to it before going into your stall. Once inside the stall, the toilet area is a raised, tiled area, with what can best be described as having a sunken urinal in the middle, and a place to put your feel on either side. Not knowing the best approach with a young child, I simply took her underwear off, and held her suspended in a swing-like position over the hole. I was grateful to have stuffed a small role of toilet paper and a bottle of hand sanitizer in my purse before leaving. I had the pleasure of taking Nancy to this bathroom twice. I chose to hold it.
Nearing 4 hours of waiting Martin's name is called. Sheila takes him into the nurse's office where he is weighed and vitals are recorded. The same happens with Jane and Nancy, followed by more waiting. Finally the doctor calls each child's name. Blood samples had been collected the day before, so Dr. is beautiful, friendly, and smart, and speaks good English, which she uses out of kindness for me. She reviews the results and blood counts, does a brief physical, and makes recommendations. Jane and Martin have gained weight and height and their numbers have remained good. Nancy also gained height and weight and was free from illness, however her number had dropped significantly from her last visit, meaning her anti-retroviral medications are no longer do the job they need to do. There will be a clinical review of the HIV cases on Thursday, so Nancy's case will be reviewed. Dr. Michelle will recommend an adjustment in medication to address the change in numbers in order to keep Nancy healthy. This means we'll be back for more labs and appointment in the next two week which is not so pleasant, but we are grateful to have a good HIV clinic available to serve our precious little ones.
Dr. Michelle has written orders and prescriptions, and though I had hoped we were done, we still have a few more stops to make. We load up the diaper bag, now filled with empty snack and milk containers, and books a little worse for wear, and haul the kids back down the stairs to a small office. Here we will pick up the ARV medications and have our order sheet stamped in order to pick up the rest of the prescriptions at the regular pharmacy. The pharmacist looks over the orders, selects medications, throwing the information pamphlet over his right shoulder in the general direction of the garbage can, sticks a new label on the bottle, and hands them to Sheila. He says I am learning Creole faster than Sheila, which is strange considering we have never met and he has no idea how long I have been in Haiti, not mention Sheila is fluent enough to translate effectively with almost anyone I meet.
We leave this office and go a few doors down where we need to get another specialized medicine for Martin. He has to pee. Again. So Sheila takes him outside while I await the packet of TB meds being prepared. Sheila and Martin return, we gather up our load once again, and proceed to our final stop for the day -- the main pharmacy.
The pharmacy is basically a walk up counter with doors wide open in order to allow people to spill out onto the sidewalk. Something about it reminds me of walking up to a carnival booth. The wait is long. I take Martin and Nancy to "entertain" while Sheila keeps Jane and stands in line. During her wait, Jane's diaper rumbles loudly to announce a delightful "poop up the back" event while Sheila waits helplessly in line. She digs in the diaper bag for a blanket to contain the mess and resumes her wait. After about 45 minutes she finally reaches the front of the line and gets the needed prescriptions.
While waiting for Sheila, John finds me waiting. I ask him to take some money and buy a few drinks for all of us, and a little lunch for himself, as he has been waiting the entire time of our visit, as well. We meet up to walk back to the vehicle together, relieved to be on our way home. After finishing their drinks all three children fall asleep on laps or against shoulders for the bumpy ride home and for the first moment in hours all of us are content and relaxed.
Though this trip for a routine check has been challenging, I know that our children are the lucky ones. Kids die of HIV or for lack of access to basic medical care in Haiti. Haitians know there is no use going to the hospital unless you have the money up front to pay. Those without money or means to buy needed medications suffer with illness or malnutrition, and some are left orphaned from the illness they did nothing to deserve. Our little ones have known of needle sticks and bitter medicine, lethargy and discomfort in their young lives, but they do not yet worry about mortality. That worry is for those who love and care for them now and the families that await them through adoption.
*The real names of the children are not used in order to product their identity.
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Saturday, October 20, 2012
A Day in the Life
Kirk has been challenging me to write something a little more basic to give you a more direct view of what our day to day lives are like here in Haiti, so thought I'd take a whack at that today, since I haven't written in while. So here is A Day In the Life of the Vander Pol's, just to give you a glimpse of what a "typical" day might look like. I sort of snicker to myself, even typing the word "typical" because I was going to attempt this once before and,well, it was so far from typical I couldn't know where to begin, but today is a new day, so here we go.
Thursday, October 18, 2012
7:15 AM Kindle alarm goes off. Hit snooze.
7:25 AM Elijah hops in bed with us/me. I say me, because our twin bunks are beside one another, but mine is 5 inches taller than Kirk's so Elijah does have to chose which one of us to come snuggle with. I guess I'm the more receptive one this morning.
7:30 AM Do devotions, get up and get ready for the day.
8:00 AM Kirk is out the door to walk over to COTP to start his day. Some days are earlier, but there are no pressing issues today, that he yet knows of. Today is my dear friend, Heather Pluimer's Birthday! I write a quick birthday greeting to her. Set our laundry out the front door for the laundry lady to pick up. Ternicille works M-SA doing our laundry and that of some of the children. She returns it by early afternoon, smelling fresh, nicely folded, and stain free.
8:30 AM I start school with Noah and Elijah. We do a literature lesson together (we start the first chapter of The Hobbit), do a Kreyol lesson of reviewing 15 verbs we started yesterday, and do Noah's Alpha Omega Bible lesson together, before breaking off for individual work. Noah starts his science lesson and begins to write a report on a NASA mission. Elijah and I practice reading, do spelling words, and practice addition facts on the Kindle. He likes to write the answers on the drawing app and it is good practice for his letter and number writing as he still has trouble with a few reversals. Noah is really into his Apollo I project and is really getting into the history so I let him continue researching and learning instead of moving on geography.
10:30 AM Mid-morning meal/ breakfast is served at COTP, but we decide to keep pressing on with school work. M, W, F are "American" days and TU, TH, SA are "Haitian" days. The boys and I are still not crazy about breakfast pasta, so we just eat at home and wait for the afternoon meal. tomorrow AM is french toast and fresh pineapple day, so we won't miss that. : )
12:00 PM Finish up school work. Rob calls from COTP to bring one of the older kids to come visit his bio-mom who has arrived for an appointment. His Nanny washes him and dresses him in clean clothes to look handsome for his mother. I walk him over to supervise the visit. Following the visit, the child is sad, so Carla, a Nanny, and I spend time talking with him and comforting him. He also has ear pain, so I take him to visit the nurse for some Tylenol. This was the time frame I had planned to bake a cake for this evening's good-bye party for one of the kids leaving, but while I am attending to the older kid, Tori agrees to bake the cake. When it is finished and cooled I frost it and put it in the fridge.
Kirk is working on cleaning up the office, finances, and other paperwork in the office with Rob. The boys are playing with the VandeLune girls on the playground.
2:00 PM I return to our apartment to tidy up and put away laundry. Milouse cleans on TU and F so I don't need to do a thorough cleaning today.
2:30 PM I return to the main compound to eat the afternoon meal/lunch. Today we have cooked beef pieces in a slightly spicy sauce, rice with beans, and a bean sauce, along with breadfruit salad (ends up tasting like potato salad) and fresh sliced tomatoes. Somehow cold glass bottled Coke always goes good with the afternoon meal! Otherwise it's filtered water.
Rickerns returns to COTP with Agape mail. There is a package for us (which I don't find out until the next day). One of the adoptive families sends a package for their son's birthday and sends a whole separate box of treats for our family - Pringles, chocolate, ground flax (yeah, I requested that), baking supplies.... bliss in a box! Thank you, Jeff's family!!!
3:00 PM Tori helps me prepare the afternoon snack for the kids in the baby house. I haven't actually served at snack time before so she is nice enough to help me out today. Some of the kids will be going to a peer's birthday party in a little bit, so we only prepare snacks for those who won't be going to have cake.
3:30 PM Go into the pharmacy/clinic to use the database to enter notes from interactions with kids earlier today.
4:00 PM Pick up Natalie from the pavilion where she is playing with peers and take her back to our apartment for a visit before her supper time. (I do not spend time with Rose today - complicated, but she is having a hard time with seeing us and letting us go, so we don't want to do more relationship building with her until we are closer to moving her in.) She is feeling shy today, likely because her special Nanny is working today and it is still quite hard for her to separate from Bouta. She wants to be carried. We have a little snack together, Noah and Elijah play blocks with her, and we read a few books.
5:30 PM I tell her she is going to go back to eat with the kids and Bouta and sleep, and that we will play again tomorrow. She agrees with this plan.
I go from the pavilion to the mango tree in front of the volunteer house where the staff are beginning devotions. We have prayer, worship, and study time together, while the sky darkens and rumbles threatening rain, as it does most late afternoons this time of year. During devotions, Noah stayed back at the house to play Poptropica (first time since moving here!) and Elijah goes to play with the VandeLune kids.
6:30 PM Dodging raindrops, I get the cake from the kitchen for the going away party. Kirk and Elijah and I attend along with a couple other staff. We give our nightly greeting to the tarantula we see each evening on our way back to the apt. He seems to come out at dusk.
The little girl is dressed in her most "bel" clothes and enjoys the attention of her farewell gathering, complete with picture taking and a lot of messy cake. Some of the other kids (and a few of the Nannies) are sad about her leaving.
7:30 PM We head back to our apt. as the thunder booms and rolls above. Noah and Elijah play a computer game together until it is time to shower and get ready for bed. They each take their (cold) showers, have bedtime snacks, and brush their teeth.
8:30 PM They hop into their bunks, listen to devotions, and pray before going to sleep.
Kirk and I spend a little time talking and checking fb/email.
9:30 PM Kirk goes to bed. I read, write, and spend time on-line.
11:00 PM I go to bed. Good-night.
So there it is -- typical day. : )
Thursday, October 18, 2012
7:15 AM Kindle alarm goes off. Hit snooze.
7:25 AM Elijah hops in bed with us/me. I say me, because our twin bunks are beside one another, but mine is 5 inches taller than Kirk's so Elijah does have to chose which one of us to come snuggle with. I guess I'm the more receptive one this morning.
7:30 AM Do devotions, get up and get ready for the day.
8:00 AM Kirk is out the door to walk over to COTP to start his day. Some days are earlier, but there are no pressing issues today, that he yet knows of. Today is my dear friend, Heather Pluimer's Birthday! I write a quick birthday greeting to her. Set our laundry out the front door for the laundry lady to pick up. Ternicille works M-SA doing our laundry and that of some of the children. She returns it by early afternoon, smelling fresh, nicely folded, and stain free.
8:30 AM I start school with Noah and Elijah. We do a literature lesson together (we start the first chapter of The Hobbit), do a Kreyol lesson of reviewing 15 verbs we started yesterday, and do Noah's Alpha Omega Bible lesson together, before breaking off for individual work. Noah starts his science lesson and begins to write a report on a NASA mission. Elijah and I practice reading, do spelling words, and practice addition facts on the Kindle. He likes to write the answers on the drawing app and it is good practice for his letter and number writing as he still has trouble with a few reversals. Noah is really into his Apollo I project and is really getting into the history so I let him continue researching and learning instead of moving on geography.
10:30 AM Mid-morning meal/ breakfast is served at COTP, but we decide to keep pressing on with school work. M, W, F are "American" days and TU, TH, SA are "Haitian" days. The boys and I are still not crazy about breakfast pasta, so we just eat at home and wait for the afternoon meal. tomorrow AM is french toast and fresh pineapple day, so we won't miss that. : )
12:00 PM Finish up school work. Rob calls from COTP to bring one of the older kids to come visit his bio-mom who has arrived for an appointment. His Nanny washes him and dresses him in clean clothes to look handsome for his mother. I walk him over to supervise the visit. Following the visit, the child is sad, so Carla, a Nanny, and I spend time talking with him and comforting him. He also has ear pain, so I take him to visit the nurse for some Tylenol. This was the time frame I had planned to bake a cake for this evening's good-bye party for one of the kids leaving, but while I am attending to the older kid, Tori agrees to bake the cake. When it is finished and cooled I frost it and put it in the fridge.
Kirk is working on cleaning up the office, finances, and other paperwork in the office with Rob. The boys are playing with the VandeLune girls on the playground.
2:00 PM I return to our apartment to tidy up and put away laundry. Milouse cleans on TU and F so I don't need to do a thorough cleaning today.
2:30 PM I return to the main compound to eat the afternoon meal/lunch. Today we have cooked beef pieces in a slightly spicy sauce, rice with beans, and a bean sauce, along with breadfruit salad (ends up tasting like potato salad) and fresh sliced tomatoes. Somehow cold glass bottled Coke always goes good with the afternoon meal! Otherwise it's filtered water.
Rickerns returns to COTP with Agape mail. There is a package for us (which I don't find out until the next day). One of the adoptive families sends a package for their son's birthday and sends a whole separate box of treats for our family - Pringles, chocolate, ground flax (yeah, I requested that), baking supplies.... bliss in a box! Thank you, Jeff's family!!!
3:00 PM Tori helps me prepare the afternoon snack for the kids in the baby house. I haven't actually served at snack time before so she is nice enough to help me out today. Some of the kids will be going to a peer's birthday party in a little bit, so we only prepare snacks for those who won't be going to have cake.
3:30 PM Go into the pharmacy/clinic to use the database to enter notes from interactions with kids earlier today.
4:00 PM Pick up Natalie from the pavilion where she is playing with peers and take her back to our apartment for a visit before her supper time. (I do not spend time with Rose today - complicated, but she is having a hard time with seeing us and letting us go, so we don't want to do more relationship building with her until we are closer to moving her in.) She is feeling shy today, likely because her special Nanny is working today and it is still quite hard for her to separate from Bouta. She wants to be carried. We have a little snack together, Noah and Elijah play blocks with her, and we read a few books.
5:30 PM I tell her she is going to go back to eat with the kids and Bouta and sleep, and that we will play again tomorrow. She agrees with this plan.
I go from the pavilion to the mango tree in front of the volunteer house where the staff are beginning devotions. We have prayer, worship, and study time together, while the sky darkens and rumbles threatening rain, as it does most late afternoons this time of year. During devotions, Noah stayed back at the house to play Poptropica (first time since moving here!) and Elijah goes to play with the VandeLune kids.
6:30 PM Dodging raindrops, I get the cake from the kitchen for the going away party. Kirk and Elijah and I attend along with a couple other staff. We give our nightly greeting to the tarantula we see each evening on our way back to the apt. He seems to come out at dusk.
The little girl is dressed in her most "bel" clothes and enjoys the attention of her farewell gathering, complete with picture taking and a lot of messy cake. Some of the other kids (and a few of the Nannies) are sad about her leaving.
7:30 PM We head back to our apt. as the thunder booms and rolls above. Noah and Elijah play a computer game together until it is time to shower and get ready for bed. They each take their (cold) showers, have bedtime snacks, and brush their teeth.
8:30 PM They hop into their bunks, listen to devotions, and pray before going to sleep.
Kirk and I spend a little time talking and checking fb/email.
9:30 PM Kirk goes to bed. I read, write, and spend time on-line.
11:00 PM I go to bed. Good-night.
So there it is -- typical day. : )
Sunday, September 30, 2012
When It's All Been Said and Done
The day was closing when the gatekeeper came to find Shiela. Someone from Lagosette was pleading to come in
to see the nurse. A young man and his sister were supporting a frail
woman, their mother, as she hobbled through the gate. She wore a
blouse and fitted tweed suit coat, and a linen skirt which tried to escape her thin
hips bones. She had dressed well
for this important visit, despite her obvious pain. She wore a lace
handkerchief over her head to protect her sensitive eyes from light.
She may have been 50 years or more, though it was difficult to tell from her
sun-aged skin and worn expression, as her pain was her most prominent
feature. She moaned quietly under its weight.
Shiela stopped delivering the meds she
was ready to dispense in the baby house and gave her full attention
as the young man tried to explain their plight. I was not clear on
all the details with my preliminary Kreyol, but from what I could
understand, the family had scraped together all their money for a
surgery the woman had received a week ago, but since that time, she
had experienced blinding pain in her head. They had prescriptions written on well creased paper in hand -- they had not had the money to fill them, but at this
point no pill or potion was going to be adequate to address what
seemed to be going on inside this woman's head.
They begged for an answer. The pleaded
to be able to borrow the money to see a doctor at Milot (MEE-low)
hospital. There was nothing Sheila could do to help them with what
they wanted. She touched the woman with tenderness and addressed the
young man with compassion telling him she understood how difficult
this situation was, but in the end she sent them away, believing
there had been some complication after the surgery causing a clot, an
infection, or some other thing that now left this woman in unbearable
pain and possibly dying.
Sheila does not have an exhaustive skill set,
medications, or resources to address the need of this one person, let
alone the many others who would follow if this family were given the
money. She does not have the time in addition to the many children who
call COTP home. All she could give was her love, which she did. But
this story of one person's life is merely one in a long line of
individual people who have come to the gates of COTP in desperation. As in this case there is not always a happy ending.
While I saw the love of Christ
demonstrated through Shiela's hands and heart, I also saw the raw
depth of the curse of sin, alive and well, stealing life and joy and
hope. Here I am, in a place where a woman will likely die, and if
not, will experience excruciating pain, because she does not have the
money to go back to the doctor who operated on her. She has no
“back-up plan” for such emergencies. Her children, who desperately sought whatever help they could for her, will likely
watch her suffer and expire. There is so little justice for the poor
in Haiti. There is so little hope for a brighter tomorrow.
I felt despair in that moment and
thought, “Oh Lord, where are you in all this mess? Why am I here?
What good can I possibly do in the middle of so much suffering? What
do I have to offer? Lord, how I need your eyes to see and your ears
to hear. How I need your touch! Oh how Haiti needs your
healing balm to wipe away its sin and pain and sadness! Show me how
to be a healer in this place, for at times I feel helpless to do a thing
on my own! What do you want me to do?”
I have to confess that I have not been
following the prompting of the Spirit in my heart. A number of times
lately I have noticed a thought to pray for someone and have not, and I cannot tell you why I didn't just pray for this woman right then and there, except that I just let the
moment pass. There was so little to do for the suffering woman, at
least from my earthly standpoint, but perhaps God was offering me an
opportunity to let go of my own “can do”' mentality and take up a
bit of His “I AM”.
I wonder if he is challenging me to
seek him in prayer when I feel most helpless and allow him to be God? Perhaps when I am most vulnerable is when I am most teachable. I am
working at responding to the tug in my heart and pushing away the
inner scoffing that says it is silly, untimely, or unnecessary. I
want to live Christ's love and I am learning that in my broken state,
all God wants is for me to be used.
This song ministered to me today:
When It's All Been Said and Done (Robin
Mark)
When it's all been said and done
there is just one thing that matters
did I do my best to live for truth
did I live my life for you?
When it's all been said and done
all my treasures will mean nothing
only what I've done for love's reward
will stand the test of time.
Lord your mercy is so great
that you look beyond our weakness
and find purest gold in miry clay
making sinners into saints
I will always sing your praise
here on earth and ever after
for you've shown me heaven's my true
home
when it's all been said and done
you're my life when life is done.
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Stormy Night
Thunderstorms are not the same in Haiti
as in MN. In MN, I could watch the clouds gather and grow and growl
across the prairie miles before reaching the sky above me, watching
from the safety of my sliding glass door. The lightning would first
shimmer in the west, gradually growing in intensity and strength.
There seems to be nothing gradual about
the development of a thunderstorm where we are living in Haiti.
Nearly every afternoon I expect something when the sky takes an
overcast light and the mountains rumble with thunder in the distance,
but rarely does anything develop. Perhaps that's why this evening's
storm was so successful in sneaking up on me. The sky exploded with
a gun powder crack and a flash of light, echoing off the distant
mountains and reverberating through the valley. Thunder never seemed
so near! It was followed by rain with the kind of heaviness that the
tree leaves submit to in drooping form, and branches ready to release
their hold fall to the ground with loud groans. Two ripe coconuts
and a yellow grapefruit fell with a thud, somehow dislodged by the
weight of rain against them.
The one-eyed dog came slinking to the
porch, whining like a squeaky tricycle, parking beneath the stair to
take shelter from heavy drops against his mangy coat. A softball
size toad sat in a large puddle enjoying the deluge. The sound of
water against the earth was like the constant of car tires on rainy
city streets, with louder splashes where the rain pooled and hurled
itself from the roof. And oh, the sweep of cool air that rolled in
with the rain! A sweet low air, moist with rain, but cool and fresh
against the mugginess of the day – completely delicious and
calming.
In MN most storms pass, eager to speed
across vast spaces, but here the thunder rolls around the hills and
valley, bumping against mountains, turning over in the plains. It
lingers, using all it's energy before it lays to rest, like a wind-up
toy waiting to fully expire before dropping it's chin to it's chest.
The storm here feels more raw and present, as many things do.
The only thing that feels the same is
the illumination of landscape for a brief flash of light – the kind
I remember laying in bed as child, watching the farm flash into view
and then disappear back into darkness.
What feels the most different, though,
is the knowledge that as I experience this storm within the safe
confines of my concrete walls, not far from me people lay side by
side on the dirt floors of their homes while the driving rain leaks
through their tin-shad roofs. The lightning brightens the one room
they all sleep in through the cracks between the bamboo or rice sack
walls. This reality existed before I left the safe world I existed
in before coming to Haiti and I rarely gave it a though. Now the
truth is too close to ignore. God have mercy on me for ignoring the
obvious plight of the poor for so long.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
A Trip to the DR
Today after our morning staff meeting
we decided to take a trip to the DR to buy some groceries. While a
number of the same items are available for sale in Cap, the grocery
prices are cheaper in the Dominican, and since a visitor needed to
return to the DR today, we decided to make it a grocery trip.
Erin, Nikki and I grabbed our shopping
bags and squeezed into the cab of the small pick-up with the woman
who needed to go the DR. Rikerns drove. Driving in Haiti feels very
little like driving in the states. The dirt roads are so filled with
potholes and rough rock that “keeping to the right” has no
meaning. The bumping and jostling causes your sweaty skin to rub and
chafe against whoever you sit next to and those with propensity
toward motion sickness are just in trouble. Of course this is the
description for riding up front. Riding in back of any vehicle is
another story entirely, and I havn't even come close to riding
Haitian style in a crowded tap-tap or moto.
There is a good paved road most of the
way to the DR, so after riding on rough rural ones, the smooth
surface is a treat. Though the speed limit sign indicates 50 kph
Rikerns drives at speeds well above and below the limit, using the
horn to communicate his presence and intention. The road is shared
with numerous vehicles, animals, and people. Motos (motorcycles)
bearing anything from a twin size mattress to a family of 5 with bags
and packages stuffed between, speed along the outermost part of the
lane and we honk to inform them of our advance. There are a few
other pick-ups or four wheel drive vehicles, many of them
not-for-profit labeled, but some by working Haitians or the wealthy.
Interspersed are larger dump truck which rule the road and proclaim
their dominance with loud honks. Then there are the tap-taps. These
vehicles are usually pick-ups outfitted with a cab and metal railings
in which 12-20 people stuff themselves. Sometimes the roofs are also
covered with items or additional people. A guy in the back acts as
bouncer and fare collector, monitoring who gets on or off.
On the roadsides people ride or drive
donkeys and horses with heavy loads. Women sit sideways in woven
saddles with woven bags filled with market goods.
We were stopped by Haitian police,
twice, doing road-sides checks. They requested our passports, spoke
with Rikerns inquiring of our business and allowed us to pass.
Rikerns whizzed in and out of our lane,
slowing for speed bumps and children, speeding up in the clearing
while acrid smoke burned in my nose from intermittent ditch fires.
The land changes from tropical to semi-arid and back again during the
drive and the wind in my face and sun on my arm feel comfortable
despite the stickiness inside the cab of the pickup.
We arrived at the border around noon.
The crossing consisted off a short bridge with a Haitian gate on one
end and a Domican Republic gate on the other. No one talked to us or
asked for identification. We simply walked across with others. Some
guards were busy spraying off tires of vehicles crossing, in an
attempt to limit the spread of Cholera, which has not yet reached the
DR.
I have just begun to form sentences and
thoughts in Creole, but as we crossed the border everything became
Spanish. My brain ached as I tried to bring up a simple “hello”
in Spanish. As if in gridlock the only foreign words I could form
were Creole! I could understand some of the speech but was helpless
to respond. By the time we stopped for lunch a short time later, I
could remember enough to ask for water, but not much more.
We walked a few blocks further to reach
the supermarket. In this town the roads were paved on every street.
There were gutters to take waste water and little trash littered the
road. Little storefronts lined the streets with quite modern looking
items within. The supermarket itself was clean and orderly, like a
small version of what you might find in the States. Pricing seemed
to vary depending on availability. A small bag of oats was about $6
USD and a box of Cheerios was just over $5. I left the Cheerios in
favor of a local box of cornflakes for $2 and splurged on a small tin
of olive oil for $7. Local items were better priced such as a local
variety of pop for $1 for a 3 litre as was a small bottle of lime
juice for the same price. I was also able to buy a large ball of
Dutch cheese for $8, which I will split with the Vande Lune's.
We left the store with heavy bags,
hailed a modified moto to load up the groceries on. Nikki rode with
the moto and our groceries where she'd meet up with Rikerns to load
them up, and Erin and I walked back the border crossing to meet her,
enduring cat calls and hissing as we walked.
All in all, it took us 5 hours and $300
to drive to the border, have lunch, get groceries, and return home.
Things that are easy and inexpensive at home are not so easy or
inexpensive here. Of course, adapting to local foods and tastes will
be far less expensive, but I guess we take this one step at a time.
Night of Drums
Tonight beyond the song of cicadas and
tree frogs there is drumming and chanting loud and long into the
night -- clapping, whoops, and frenzied beats. To be honest, I feel
unnerved by it and it makes me a little jittery behind my shuttered
screens. When a heavy green coconut bounces off the roof and falls
to the ground behind me, I jump.
Today there were disgruntled neighbors
upset that a goat that had wandered onto the property. It had been
cut free from the rope that tangled it in the brush, and sent out the
gate. The villagers wanted to know what had happened to the rope and
wanted it back, never mind that their goat had been on the property
and endangered my laundry.
Personal property is held in a
different regard in the sense that if something wanders onto your
yard or even out in traffic in front of you, it is your
responsibility to keep it from harm. You hit a chicken, you owe some
lady for it. A goat comes on your yard and gets hung up from it's
long rope catching in the thorny bushes and dies of thirst, well, you
just bought yourself a goat for not releasing it sooner. This notion
may take some time for me to integrate in any meaningful way!
Meanwhile I am watching and trying to learn how to resolve conflicts,
Haitian style. Mostly a lot of yelling and gesturing and then
negotiating in loud voices.
So even as I type these words, I pray
in my heart, for the Lord of Lords and God of all Gods to reign over
Haiti tonight. Pray for the peace of Haiti, for true worship to live
in her heart, and for the people to be blessed in the worship of
Jehovah! I pray for protection of not simply gates and a thorny
fence, but the hedge of protection brought by the angels of the Most
High! Come, Prince of Peace and claim the heart of Haiti as yours!
May your blood make foolish the blood of foul and the waters of your
baptism wash cleaner than the waters of the rivers and oceans!
After the pace built and built, the
drums stopped and voices rose in ritual chorus until the drums and
percussion joined again. Noah and Elijah have slept through it all
which is best given my own feelings of uncertainty. Eventually the
ceremony concludes and the music ends, and I allow myself light
sleep.
Please remember to pray for peace for
Haiti, and safety for us when the darkness feels near.
Roosters and Coconuts
Friday, September 14, 2012
Roosters do not crow simply to verify
the break of dawn. They call at all hours of the day and mix in with
the sounds of noisy crows picking berries off the shade tree to the
left of the porch, and the oriels that swoop and sing. They blend
with the neighborhood children laughing at their own cleverness as
they stretch garbage bags over bamboo, and attach strands of
t-shirts, too tattered to wear, to make kites that bob and dive in
the air above the dusty road. Roaming chickens cock their heads to
take note of the call, then continue their pecking at fallen mangoes
beneath a canopy of leaves, filtering the mid-day sun. Before living
in Haiti I thought of roosters as only the mythical herald's of the
morn, but they already are blending into the commonplace of the rural
Haitian landscape.
I have lived without my watch since
coming to Haiti. I will need to observe time again, soon enough, but
for now I am pleased to bed after a few hours of dark and to rise
with the brightness of day. I am beginning to fall into the rhythm
of life here at COTP.
After getting up this morning I washed
a few items of clothes in the kitchen sink and walked from our
apartment at Manna to COTP. I saw the girls for a few minutes before
breakfast. Today was french toast day and I found my appetite had
returned some with the smell of warm cinnamon. Fresh pineapple,
avocado, and tomatoes were also set out. Not my usual breakfast
combo, but ok.
After returning from breakfast,
neighborhood friends showed up at the gate asking for Noah and Elijah
-- McKenzie and his older brother Tony. They introduced us to the
many fruits on the trees of this compound, eager for us to sample,
and ready to laugh at our varied responses to the unfamiliar textures
and flavors.
Locals eat the coconuts when they are
green on the outside. The coconut “water” is clear and sweet,
and the pulp thin and slippery. The boys laughed and pulled faces
when I told them I like my coconut “old and brown”! Crazy
“blan”! I took the coconut water, some grapefruit, sour orange,
and mango and squeezed it into juice mixed with 7-Up and shared it
with the boys. It seemed to be a hit. Elijah and Noah loved it!
Knowing what to share and not to share
is a major dilemma. McKenzie wants Noah to bring out his DSi and
give it to him, which I said “no” to. But sharing our delicious
fruit punch was an easy yes. Then there is the whole spectrum of yes
and no in between. What is going to bless our relationship with new
friends? We know they sometimes do not have enough to eat and that a
few days a week they pick up the large empty milk cans which have
been filled with our leftovers from brunch and mid-day meals. They
eat our scraps so their stomachs do not go hungry in the evening.
These same children then come over the next day to play ladder ball
and have nut wars from the roof of the volunteer center with the
boys, while the girls jump rope, giggling when I get in and jump
before declaring I am too “fatigue” (tired) and “cho” (hot)
to continue. Just some normal malnourished children..... there are
some realities and discrepancies here almost too big to think about.
It's no wonder that as infants sometimes their mothers would rather
give their infant to a stranger than watch them hunger and thirst
through years of childhood. It's a thought too hard to contemplate.
Can I blame a child for becoming so bold as to ask for a DSi or
bread? God give me wisdom to find the right balance in a place where
creation and stomachs groan for Maranatha (Christ come quickly).
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